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Japanese Sumi Ink Marbling 



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Japanese Sumi Ink Marbling 

Written By: Marcia Friedman 

O PARTS: 

Sumi ink (1) 

Bottle of Japanese sumi ink; this can be found in most art stores. Made from vegetable 
oil soot, this nontoxic ink produces the "five colors, " or shades of black, used in 
traditional sumi painting. 

Plastic tray (1) 

Shallow plastic tray larger than your paper. 

Paper (1) 

Sheets of white or light-colored paper medium to heavy weight, such as card stock. 

Comb (1) 

old comb or hair pick. 

Brush (1) 

medium to large brush. 

Water (1) 



SUMMARY 

Some years ago, on a visit to Istanbul, I wandered into a little guesthouse tucked into a 
street just down the hill from Topkapi Palace. The owner, Hikmet, was a master marbling 
artist, and the place reflected his passion for the art form. Everything in sight was marbled in 
bright colors and myriad patterns: lampshades, draperies, picture frames, bedsteads, plus a 

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Japanese Sumi Ink Marbling 

stunning array of wearables. I've been in love with marbling ever since. 

Shortly after my trip I had the opportunity to try my hand at oil marbling. I had great results, 
but the process required lots of materials, some of which I'm sure are toxic. And I knew it 
would take a lot of time to master control over the swirling pigments to achieve the beautiful 
patterns I saw in books. 

Marbling has been around for centuries (especially in Asian countries), and there are a 
variety of techniques, both historical and contemporary, that you can try. But one of the 
easiest is using Japanese sumi ink and plain water to create beautiful black, gray, and white 
designs on a variety of papers. These can be used for card-making, bookbinding, 
scrapbooking, and other craft projects. 



Step 1 — Set up your marbling tray. 









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• Fill the plastic tray with 3-5 inches of water. Pour a small amount of the sumi ink on the 
surface of the water (some of it will sink to the bottom; that's why you only need a small 
amount) and swirl it around with the comb or hair pick. Try to cover the surface of the 
water with ink. The more you move the comb through the water, the more detailed the 
pattern will be. 



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Japanese Sumi Ink Marbling 



Step 2 — Create your marbled paper. 




• Hold the paper by the edges, and starting at one edge, roll a sheet of paper slowly along 
the surface of the water in the plastic tray. Carefully turn it right side up and set aside to 
dry. You can do the same with a second piece of paper, which will have a lighter gray 
design. After marbling 1 or 2 pages, add a little more ink to the water tray and repeat the 
process. If your designs become less marbled and more overall gray, dump the water and 
start again. 

• Use a paper size slightly larger than you would like your finished piece to be. This way you 
can trim the edges you hold, as they might not touch the surface of the water. 

• After the paper is slightly dry, you might want to press it under some weights to keep it 
flat. If it still buckles, use a slightly warm iron when the paper is completely dry. The 
plastic tray and comb can be cleaned easily with soap and water. 



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Japanese Sumi Ink Marbling 



Step 3 — Try variations. 




• This first variation will allow you an interesting white or light gray space in which to put 
some writing or other design. After you've poured some ink onto the water, dip the large 
brush in a cup of plain water and make some random marks on the paper. Turn the paper 
upside down (water brush marks on the bottom), and roll it carefully along the surface of 
the water in the plastic tray. The sumi ink should not stick to the brush marks, leaving 
white spaces you can write in or embellish in some other way. 

• This second variation will produce a brighter, more solid color(s). Rather than pouring the 
ink into the water, dip a fine-tipped paintbrush into the ink, then lightly poke the tip of the 
paintbrush onto the water's surface. Repeat this as many times, and with as many colors, 
as you wish. You may touch the water's surface in the same spot over and over again, 
creating a bullseye effect, or in different spots, depending on the look you want. 

• There are also variations with the actual marbling process. Although combing works fine, 
you can also try dragging a (plucked) strand of your hair across the water's surface. Or 
simply blow across the water's surface. 



This project first appeared in CRAFT Volume 03 . pages 105-107. 



This document was last generated on 2012-11-01 01 :36:25 AM. 



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